Wines of Germany

It was the Romans, those great bringers of civilization, that took the vine north of the Alps to Germany. In the succeeding centuries ‘Rhenish’ became highly prized. In recent decades, however, Germany has been engaged in cutting its own throat. Too many producers have concentrated on exporting ever-cheaper wine in ever-larger quantities, and as a result Germany’s vinous reputation has plummeted. In spite of this, the best, quality-conscious German producers continue to make wine their own way.

On the ridge this side of the town of Bernkastel (right) is the Bernkastel Doctor vineyard on the Mosel. One of the country’s finest sites, it was increased in size under the 1971 wine law: just one of many instances where a famous vineyard has been enlarged and its name applied to neighbouring land.

Climate

Because much of Germany is so chilly, choosing the right site is crucial. Vineyards need to face south, west or east ­ and being on a slope increases the intensity of the sun. However, much of Germany does have a long growing season so the grapes can go on ripening until late in the year. If *botrytis then arrives in the vineyard the result can be some of the finest, steeliest, most long-lived dessert wines to be found anywhere in the world.

In the south the climate becomes less of a problem: the warm Pfalz and even warmer Baden can make rich dry wines with little trouble.

Here on the Scharzhofberg in the Saar Riesling has to be planted on a steep slope to be able to ripen. As in so much of Germany, the flat land, and sloping ground with less than ideal exposure, are given over to other sorts of farming.

German Grape Varieties

Red wines are made in the south of the country, mainly from
Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), with Blauer Portugieser, Trollinger, Dornfelder and Lemberger also popular.Predominantly a white wine country, Germany’s best wines come from Riesling, Scheurebe (a Silvaner-Riesling cross), Ruländer (also called Grauer Burgunder or Pinot Gris), Silvaner, Gewürztraminer and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc).

The widely planted workhorse grape Müller-Thurgau ­ a cross between Riesling and Silvaner ­ produces much of the simpler wine. Coming up with new varieties by crossing others is a German phenomenon. The famous viticultural research station at Giesenheim has produced examples such as Kerner, Huxelrebe and Feberrebe, but they generally cannot compete with the classic varieties.


Click on the regions for more information.

Wine Regions of Germany